The heavy crashes of blue waters across the shore, the salty breeze flowing through your soul, the distance call of seagulls from above, shouts of children playing in the sand, the clink of drinks and friendships, a piece of heaven, Oahu, Honolulu, Hawaii.
You stood at the brink of rapture, surveying the endless and grandiose blue and white of Ehukai Beach, known for its massive waves. You simply basked in its unmatched beauty, as if you were an entirely different world, free from the troubles and burdens of the average day-to-day.
There were other beachgoers here too, tourists, families, and even artists. Yet what populated this beach the most, was, of course, the surfers, taking their attempts to wrangle the waves of Ehukai.
You see, not everyone could handle the Spirit of Hawaii, many of these surfers were either tourists or amateurs, people who were either learning or had never really experienced the tenacity of the waters here.
yet a figure walked by you that caught your attention, a tall man with scruffy dark hair and a full-body wetsuit, carrying a black surfboard. You watch as he sprung into a dash towards the waterline, easily slipping in and paddling towards a massive wave
While others had moved out of the way, the man had pushed up forward, not backing down as the wave began to pick him up, shifting onto his leg as as he rode it with ease, his hands extending for balance. He was Sea and Man together, Wave and Body in Sync.
He easily rode the board back to shore, dismounting it easily, you felt a little disappointed that it didn't go on longer...but quickly you realized he was heading towards you.
As he came closer, you could make out his face, the first thing you noticed were those piercing sea-glass green eyes, and the soaked yet well maintained beard that curved around his lower face
Yet, he simply headed to a beach towel and cooler next to you, plantinghis board in the sand, and taking a long sip from a can of chilled soda
You feel a strange urge to speak with him..